As I sit, very comfortably I must admit, on a sensational Easter Saturday looking at the expanse of Pacific Ocean and sand dunes at my feet, I feel very happy to be here in Hawke’s Bay. Better, that I have a glass of great Chardonnay in my hand, Sacred Hill Rifleman’s 2007 to be precise, from the Dartmoor terrace, high above the Tutaekuri River. 
This good feeling hasn’t always been around during our summer and harvest of 2011. I often say that in Hawke’s Bay you should be both a winegrower and sheep and beef farmer, that way, no matter what the weather you will always have something to crow about. Or if you are a glass half empty sort of person, something to moan about. The summer of 2011 has definitely been one for the sheep and beef farmers. Not only are the prices for their meat and wool at all-time highs, but they also have grass coming out of their ears. There are a lot of fat and happy sheep and cattle on the rolling hills of Hawke’s Bay this year. All that grass grew because of our well forecasted La Nina weather pattern, rain and warmth during summer, something for our farmers - not for our winegrowers.

Every winegrower prays for a warm dry summer and autumn, and when these prayers are answered we do make truly great wine. 1998, 2007 and 2009 are recent great vintages, particularly for reds. We certainly had the warmth in 2011, however the regular rain events from late January proved perfect conditions for fungal diseases that have the potential to ruin those pristine Chardonnay, Merlot and Syrah crops, almost overnight. So while you were sipping on that fine Hawke’s Bay red late in March, the winegrowers that make those wines were living in fear of what more Mother Nature could throw at them. However one should never discount the skill and judgement of the very best winegrowers and those that happen to have had a good dose of vintners luck. Many commentators will (actually some already have) written off the Hawke’s Bay vintage of 2011. That frankly is an insult to those who have made some very fine wines in 2011, wines that come from places and people that can deal with La Nina. There are very good reasons to be positive, our 2011 summer and autumn were warm, crops were moderate at best, both aspects are the cornerstone of every great vintage. Great management in the vineyard, often using very modern, natural methods, and some intuitive calls on when to harvest, meant that the very best parcels of Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah will be as good as you have enjoyed at any time in the past. My advice is to buy the wines you have loved over several vintages; chances are they will be very good in 2011. And next time you enjoy these wines think of the trials and tribulations of the winegrower who produced it.

Steve Smith, MW